What do oranges, pineapples, bananas, rice, mushrooms, nettle, beer and wine have in common? We can eat them, drink them and…weave them!

Here are some examples. We can transform the fibres of pineapple leaves into a non-woven fabric (Pinatex), recuperating an ancient processing technique employed in the Philippines for the production of women accessories. Others use the pomace (a by-product of grape processing) to create an entirely natural fabric. The production process involves the extraction of the oil from the pomace seeds, then polymerized following particular processes. The skins and stalks are transformed into a compound subsequently transformed into yarn and later woven. There is more: thanks to the fermentation of beer, we obtain a very delicate and fresh fabric, similar to cotton.

All eco-sustainable projects give new life to FOOD and constitute pieces of a ‘global’ project aimed at attempting to solve, at least partially, the problem of food waste, which amounts to 1.3 billion tons a year, worldwide. Not bad, considering that the fabrics we wear are a sort of our second skin, which I would define, at this point, even more appetizing!

We talked about it with Marco De Micheli, a fashion designer in Milan who works for famous brands such as Ferré, Marzotto, Moschino, Escada, and Ferragamo. For about 20 years, since 2007, he has been a passionate teacher at the Accademia Italiana – Arte Moda e Design of Florence. It is the first private fashion and design academy in Tuscany, authorized by the MIUR to issue legally recognized and equivalent qualifications to Italian three-year degrees. This academy opened a branch also in Rome, and it is one of the leading European training institutes in the field of design and applied arts.

Marco De Micheli teaches Types of Materials and Collection since it has become increasingly important to understand in depth the origin and response of the most innovative and technological fabrics obtained from natural fibres. Therefore, raw materials deriving from fruit and vegetables come into play alongside traditional cotton, linen, silk, hemp, and coconut fibres. Many companies, small businesses and research centres today use the wastes from the industrial production of fruit and vegetables to create new materials.

What are the new trends in the fabrics of the future? Is it true that today more and more fruits and vegetables are transformed into innovative materials for high fashion?

“I would say so, starting from the assumption that most of the brands are increasingly linking the image of luxury with the themes of ecology for a greener production. The sustainability of production processes is at the forefront of the concerns of brands. The world of eco-fibre is in endless ferment and obtaining green certifications is an increasingly important objective for many brands. Here in Florence, for example, Salvatore Ferragamo has recently launched a reflection on the theme that has culminated in a rather interesting exhibition called Sustainable Thinking, at the Museum and Ferragamo Foundation, with linked exhibitions at Palazzo Vecchio and the Museo del Novecento. The exhibition will last until 8 March 2020”.

What role does the “Made in Italy” play in the global eco-sustainable fabric market?

“The road taken by many Italian companies is the right one so that some of the biggest brands are part of the 32 global companies in the fashion and textile sectors that have met recently in Paris to sign the Fashion Pact for the protection of climate, oceans and biodiversity. Moreover, the field of research and experimentation of these companies is always more advanced and at the forefront. They all agree on one idea: the only possible future for fashion is if it becomes ethical and sustainable”.

What is the response of young people? How do your students respond to these eco-fashion stimuli?

“At the Italian Academy where I teach, 40% of the students are foreigners but all the students strongly feel they need to direct their creativity and growth towards the respect of nature and the planet. They want to focus on the search for materials and production processes in the name of sustainable aesthetics and beauty. In our courses, we can also count on some disciplines particularly aware of this subject, such as the degree course in Photography where a module is entirely dedicated to FOOD”.

Would you ever wear a pair of trousers or a pullover made with pineapple or nettle leaves?

“Absolutely! I will also be the one who will recommend them to students and friends.”

FIAMMA DOMESTICI