An encounter with the agronomist Sonia Donati

The clear blue sky, the approaching spring light and the vision of Florence from the rooftop bar where we meet: it all looks like a postcard, full of magic.

Sonia Donati is one of the greatest oil experts in Italy. She is known and appreciated not only for her in-depth knowledge in the oil sector but also for her exceptional professionalism. She is often a speaker at important in the field events, nationwide.

Sonia is the Tuscan responsible for the Slow Food Extra Virgin Guide and member of its national jury.

Always for Slow Food, she collaborates with the Guide Osterie d’Italia, Vino Quotidiano and Slow Wine.

She is famous in Italy for her collaboration in successful television programs, such as “Buono a sapersi”, where she intervenes as an olive oil taster expert. Likewise, for her regular presence in “La Prova del Cuoco” (Ready Steady Cook) and “Tutto Chiaro” TV programmes, both on RAI Uno.

I ask her, “What are the characteristics of a quality oil?”

“First of all, a quality extra virgin olive oil must meet the chemical and organoleptic standards as indicated by the EEC Reg. 2568/91 relating to virgin olive oils, and its subsequent amendments. A panel made up of at least eight expert tasters conducts the organoleptic evaluation. It identifies the quality or the negative characteristics of the oil (in which case, we speak of defects, such as rancid, fusty, grubby, etc.) and determines its product classification. To identify the characteristics of the oil, it is essential to use the tasting glass. I would like to underline that we first perceive the oil (through tasting) and then eat it!”

“What do you have to rely on to choose quality olive oil?”

“The quality of the oil is composed of several factors: the aromas are relevant. A fruity olive is the first quality aspect for it indicates both a healthy and intact olive and the professional processing in the oil mill. The bitterness and spiciness we perceive in our mouths are good for us and good for the oil (to clarify, they are the polyphenols belonging to the antioxidants category).

When all these elements are present in the oil and are in fine harmony, we can speak of great quality oil. And of course, true quality has its price!”

Producers grant this “healthy” quality since they are the custodians of a territory they do not exploit but protect, preserving their environment for all of us. I want to emphasize that by buying such oils, we do not waste money, we invest it. We become co-producers, actors of a healthy local economy. Besides, recent studies prove that the olive tree is a plant that absorbs much CO2, hence naturally fighting pollution.

“What is the correct way to preserve olive oil?”

 “Oil can be spoilt. I mean, knowing how to use and store oil is not banal, it requires care. Light, oxygen and heat can ruin it. They can cause the loss of antioxidants or, in the worst cases, the production of some oil imperfections, such as rancid. For this reason, once used, we must close the bottle with a stopper, and store it in a dark place, away from heat”.

“How was olive oil regarded fifty or sixty years ago compared to today?”

“Fifty/sixty years ago, people considered olive oil just as a product to consume, seasonal produce, significant indeed, but not of excellent value.

Only recently, we have acknowledged the importance of its quality, almost on a therapeutic level. Scientific studies started in the 50s by the American biologist and physiologist Ancel Keys – who discovered the Mediterranean Diet – have led to numerous in-depth analysis over time, such as those by the Italian-American Stephen De Felice. In 1989, he coined the term “nutraceutical” to indicate that only the quality oils, those rich in beneficial elements, possess nutritional and healing properties. To the present days, a recent study by the International Journal of Molecular Science shows that a component present only in olive oil, the oleocanthal, has anti-inflammatory effects on humans, like ibuprofen (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory). I would like to end with a request, an invitation: please learn how to give quality olive oil bottles! It is a very important gesture, more than it may seem.”

When we say goodbye, the light in the sky has dimmed; Florence becomes a starry firmament, with thousands of lights: Brunelleschi’s Dome, Palazzo Vecchio and the church of Santa Maria Novella stand out in the evening darkness. Then Sonia exclaims, “Look at such splendour…it is truly a world heritage!”

“…such as olive oil!” I reply, and we part with a smile.

NICOLETTA ARBUSTI